A Plea for Eros

was raw then. Unlike many of my recollections that are weirdly drained of all hues, like a black-and-white movie, my memories of Thailand blaze with color.
    I am looking down at the deep brown, wrinkled, and extremely dirty face of a man from one of the hill tribes. He is smiling at me with ochre teeth. His clothes are royal blue and red and covered with silver ornaments that catch the sunlight. In his face I can see that he finds me just as marvelous as I find him.
    It is a cool night, and I am standing on the steps of V.’s house when a
tuk-tuk,
one of the small trucks that serve as Chiang Mai’s taxis, stops on the road. P. and several others climb out and walk toward us, but it is only P. whom I remember without blur. He is tripping toward me with an enormous grin on his face, dressed in a white T-shirt, narrow blue jeans, and over his shoulders he has draped a brilliant pink feather boa. He stretches out his arms for my embrace and calls out my name: “Sili! Sili!”
    V. and I are walking toward the village on a dirt road spotted with pale marks from the sunlight that shines through the dark green trees. Five or six children are walking toward us. One of them is carrying a blaring radio in his arms that blasts out the popular song about Muhammad Ali. I hear the words “dance like a butterfly, sting like a bee.” When they get closer, they eye me, begin to shriek, turn, and run fast in the opposite direction. I can see their thin brown legs pumping hard, the dust rising beneath their bare feet. V. turns to me. “The’re shouting the Thai word for spirit. They think you’re a ghost.”
    I am watching a small orange lizard on the wall through a gauze of mosquito netting as the afternoon sun shines through the window. The memory is as still as a photograph, and if there was any noise at all, I have forgotten it.
    Only the unprotected self can feel joy.
    There was another side. I saw two literal wounds during those three months.
    The streets are so crowded, it’s difficult to move. The whole city has come out for the Festival of Lights. The Mekong River is burning with light from a thousand boats, some tiny, some larger, illuminated by torches and candles. V. and I are walking together, holding hands to keep from being separated by the pushing throng. My sister Asti is somewhere behind me with other friends, and then ahead of me there is a burst of red. Blood. The back of a man. Something has hit his shoulder. The memory is in slow motion, clearly a distortion of what really happened, and yet I watch as the crowd parts, opens onto a view of what? I don’t know. People are scrambling away, and V. tugs hard at my arm. There must have been shouting and screaming, but I can’t recall these sounds, only add them to the confusion. “Someone threw a Molotov cocktail into the crowd,” V. tells me. I still don’t know how he knew that. I don’t bother to ask. I don’t feel anything. I note this. I’ve seen a terrible thing, and I’m not responding. Was it because I didn’t see it well enough? Wasn’t it real to me? It’s as if I’m anesthetized, absent.
    I am near the Burmese border, watching an operation. A young man has been in a motorcycle accident, and his right leg is badly injured. There is blood all over the operating table. I can see the enormous gash in his leg, a messy, deep wound. I am looking down at him and the physicians from a small balcony. Beside me is the doctor with whom I have traveled. I’ve been living with him, his wife, and his daughter since I arrived in Chiang Mai. I look down at the leg and say to myself, Siri, you are looking down at his injury, and you are okay. You are tougher and stronger than you thought. I silently admire myself. A few seconds later, I feel dizzy. Then the familiar nausea rises up in
my stomach. It has happened before. I feel it coming. My knees give way, and I’m fainting.
    Not long after I returned to the United States, I fell violently ill. For days, I lay in bed with a head that felt like someone had left an axe in it. I became a vomiting, shuddering ruin that couldn’t stand upright or tolerate any light from the window. The vertigo and nausea came and went, but the pain in my head remained in varying forms and degrees for eight long months. While I sat in the library, dutifully reading through the pain, I blamed myself for generating a bizarre psychosomatic symptom, a punishing head that made it hard to see, hard to read, hard to think—in