Training for Climbing, 2nd: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Performance (How To Climb Series)

cord, relating how to move and adjust muscle forces, body positions, and so forth, given the parameters at hand, such as steepness of the rock, friction qualities, holds being used, and type of terrain.
    sharp end —The lead climber’s end of the rope.
    skill —The capability to bring about an end result with maximum certainty, minimum energy, and minimum time.
    slow-twitch fibers —The muscle fiber type that contracts slowly and is used most in moderate-intensity endurance activities such as easy to moderate climbing or running.
    sport climbing —Usually refers to any indoor or outdoor climbing on bolt-protected routes.
    spotter —A person designated to slow the fall of a boulderer, with the main goal of keeping the boulderer’s head from hitting the ground.
    stabilizer muscle —A muscle that is stimulated to help anchor or stabilize the position of a bone.
    strength —The amount of muscle force that can be exerted; speed and distance are not factors of strength.
    strength endurance —See anaerobic endurance.
    supination —Rotation of the forearm outward and palm-upward.
    synovial fluid —A viscid fluid secreted by the membrane lining joints, tendon sheaths, and bursae to lubricate and cushion them during movement.
    Tabata —A grueling interval-training protocol involving twenty seconds of maximum-intensity exercise followed by ten seconds of rest; usually repeated up to eight times. Named after its developer, Izumi Tabata.
    tendinitis —An acute disorder involving the inflammation of a tendon and synovial membrane at a joint.
    tendinopathy —A general term that just refers to tendon injury, without specifying a particular type of injury such as tendinitis (inflammation) or tendinosis (failed healing).
    tendinosis —Chronic tendon pain due to an accumulation of microscopic injuries that don’t heal properly; the main problem, then, is failed healing, not inflammation.
    tendon —A white fibrous cord of dense connective tissue that attaches muscle to bone.
    trad —Short for a traditional climb (or climber) that requires natural protection placements.
    training effect —A basic principle of exercise science that states that adaptation occurs from an exercise only in those parts or systems of the body that are stressed by the exercise.
    transfer of learning —The gain or loss in proficiency on one task as a result of practice or experience on another task.
    trigger point —A long-lasting muscle spasm or contracture often associated with local muscular fatigue or injury.
    tweak —To injure, as in a tweaked finger tendon.
    variable practice —Practice in which many variations on a class of actions are performed; opposite of blocked practice.
    vein —A vessel that returns blood from the various parts of the body to the heart.
    visualization —Controlled and directed imagery that can be used for awareness building, monitoring and self-regulation, healing, and, most important, as mental programming for good performances.
    VO 2 max —Maximal oxygen uptake, as in the measurement of maximum aerobic power.
    wired —Known well, as in a wired route.
    working —Practicing the moves on a difficult route via toprope or hangdogging.

SUGGESTED READING
     
    Ament, Pat. Master of Rock. Mechanicsburg, Pa.: Stackpole Books, 1977, 1998.
     
    Armstrong, Lawrence E. Performing in Extreme Environments. Champaign, Ill.: Human Kinetics, 2000.
     
    Benardot, Dan. Advanced Sports Nutrition. Champaign, Ill.: Human Kinetics, 2006.
     
    Brand-Miller, Jennie, et al. The Glucose Revolution: The Authoritative Guide to the Glycemic Index. New York: Marlowe and Company, 1999.
     
    Brukner, Peter, and Karim Khan. Clinical Sports Medicine. New York: McGraw-Hill, 2006.
     
    Burke, Edmund R. Optimal Muscle Recovery. Garden City Park, N.Y.: Avery Publishing Group, 1999.
     
    Csikszentmihalyi, Mihaly. Flow: The Psychology of Optimal Experience. New York: Harper Perennial, 1990.
     
    Garfield, Charles A. Peak Performance: Mental Training Techniques of the World’s Greatest Athletes. New York: Warner Books, 1984.
     
    Goddard, Dale, and Udo, Neumann. Performance Rock Climbing. Mechanicsburg, Pa.: Stackpole Books, 1993.
     
    Guten, Gary. Injuries in Outdoor Recreation. Guilford, Conn.: Globe Pequot Press/Falcon Publishing, 2005.
     
    Hochholzer, Thomas, et al. One Move Too Many. Ebenhausen, Germany: Lochner-Verlag, 2003.
     
    Hörst, Eric J. How to Climb 5.12. Guilford, Conn.: Globe Pequot Press/FalconGuides, 2003.
     
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