Training for Climbing
“ Training for Climbing is a great resource. Whether you’re just starting out or already ticking 5.13, you’ll find valuable information here to help you climb harder. This is the most complete and up-to-date training guide available. Better yet, it’s presented in a clean and easily understandable format, with inspiring and illustrative photos.”
— Rock and Ice magazine
“Eric Hörst has taken complex scientific training concepts and integrated these with contemporary research on climbing to produce a very readable and useful training guide. This book will lead the climber to new heights of performance.”
—Phillip B. Watts, PhD, exercise physiologist
and climbing researcher, Northern Michigan University
“Hörst is uniquely positioned to bring current methods in sports psychology and exercise science to the world of climbing, and he has hit the mark in superb style! If you are passionate about climbing and getting better, Training for Climbing will become your dog-eared companion!”
—Richard K. Fleming, PhD, assistant professor
of psychology, University of Massachusetts Medical School
“With comprehensive textbook-like descriptions of nutrition, recovery, weight training, and structured workouts, Training for Climbing is a crucial addition to your climbing library. Use this book to make 5.13 a reality instead of just a dream.”
—Michelle Hurni, author of Coaching Climbing
Reader Reviews from Around the World
“I want to tell you that Training for Climbing is clearly the best and most comprehensive book on climbing training methodology I have ever read. In particular, the chapters on mental training and skills/strategy training have inspired me and given me extremely valuable insights for my future workouts. Thanks for such a great work!”
“I have just read your book Training for Climbing , and I think it is great!”
“Eric, just wanted to say thanks for writing Training for Climbing . Since I started reading it and training, I have improved tremendously. I am having a great time doing the strength-training exercises and just enjoying the process of climbing with a different mentality.”
“Thank you, Mr. Hörst, for helping me achieve my first 5.12a just a few days ago!”
“Hi Eric, I’ve just finished reading Training for Climbing —great work! Over the last 14 years I have studied climbing and to date your book is by far the most accessible to average climbers.”
“I read a quote from your training book and consequently bought it. This book has changed my whole attitude in climbing and life due to your mental training chapter. Just wanted to say thank you!”
“Thanks for your great books, Eric. I have read them all—they are the best!”
“What a great book! Your HIT workout definitely gave me much more strength. Thank you very much for your great work, Eric!”
“Hi Eric, I read your book Training for Climbing . I think it is the best book in the field.”
To buy books in quantity for corporate use or incentives, call (800) 962-0973 or e-mail [email protected]
Copyright © 2003, 2008 by Eric J. Hörst
Portions of this book are based on information from Flash Training by Eric J. Hörst, previously published by Falcon Publishing and Chockstone Press.
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying and recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, except as may be expressly permitted in writing from the publisher. Requests for permission should be addressed to The Globe Pequot Press, Attn: Rights and Permissions Department, P.O. Box 480, Guilford CT 06437.
Falcon, FalconGuides, and Chockstone are registered trademarks of The Globe Pequot Press.
All interior photos are by the author unless otherwise noted.
Exercise photos depicting the author are by Lisa Ann Hörst.
Text design: Casey Shain
Chart design: Mary Ballachino
Illustrations: Judy Newhouse unless otherwise noted
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Hörst, Eric J.
Training for climbing : the definitive guide to